Do you know the difference between so-called “Core” and “Non-Core” vaccines for your dog, and what those terms mean? Do you sometimes wonder, “How often do I need to vaccinate my dog?” Or which vaccines are absolutely necessary and which are not? And what’s required by law? It can get confusing. A lot of veterinarians give out misleading information to get you to keep vaccinating your dog regularly. So we want to fill in the blanks and give you the information you need to make the best decision for your dog. Then, when you get that card in the mail from your vet reminding you that your dog’s due for his annual physical exam and vaccinations, you’ll be prepared, knowing what your dog does and doesn’t need to remain protected from disease – and stay out of trouble with the law!
Core Vs Non-Core
All of the vaccines given to dogs fit into 2 categories: core and non-core vaccines.
Core vaccines are the ones most vets recommend your dog should have as a puppy. These vaccines all protect against dangerous viral diseases. They are:
Rabies
Distemper
Parvovirus
Adenovirus (Canine Hepatitis)
The Non-Core vaccines include:
Bordetella
Lyme Disease
Leptospirosis 4-way (this is sometimes included in combination vaccines with core vaccines, but it is a non-core vaccine and should be considered separately)
Canine Influenza
Parainfluenza
Adenovirus Intranasal
Several of the non-core vaccines (Bordetella, Lyme and Leptospirosis) are bacterial vaccines. Bacterial vaccines have low efficacy rates coupled with high incidence of adverse reactions. This means they should rarely be used, and then, only after careful consideration of all the risks of vaccinating vs not vaccinating against these diseases.
But if you do plan to give your dog any of these vaccines (or you already have), you’ll need to know how long they last and how to protect him after. [Related] Want to no more about those non-core vaccines for dogs? There’s a ton of info here.
This is great, but it still doesn’t answer the question of which ones your dog needs. Don’t worry, I’m getting to that.
How Long Vaccines Last
We’ve created a downloadable chart that you can print off and take with you (or look at before you make an appointment). In it, you’ll see two parts, one for Core and one for Non-Core vaccines.
First, for core vaccines … you’ll see the Minimum Duration of Immunity of the Core Vaccines. Protection against disease from these vaccines has been proven by clinical studies to last from 7 to 15 years (depending on the vaccine). The core vaccine information in the chart is based on clinical studies by Ronald D Schultz PhD and you can read more about his work in this article.
If your dog has had any of the core vaccines at 16 weeks of age or older, he’s most likely protected for life and doesn’t need to be vaccinated again.
Your veterinarian may not agree with this. Unless your veterinarian is truly holistic, she will probably at least follow the AAHA guidelines.
Your veterinarian may imply that the core vaccines are required by law. But, except for rabies, they’re not.
Next, for non-core vaccines, you’ll see we’ve focused on the three main non-core vaccines that your vet’s likely to recommend: Bordetella (kennel cough), Lyme Disease and Leptospirosis. Since we don’t advocate any of these vaccines, the chart lists some issues with these vaccines that you should consider before vaccinating your dog.
Why You Shouldn’t Over-Vaccinate Your Dog
Vaccinating your dog more often than necessary can be very dangerous for him. All vaccines have potential adverse reactions. These can range from fairly mild reactions like lethargy or soreness, to really severe ones like anaphylactic shock, autoimmune diseases and even death. The vaccine can also cause the disease it’s intended to prevent!
When your dog is protected by the vaccines he’s already had, vaccinating him again does not make him “more immune.”
Vaccines also contain other ingredients that are potentially harmful for your dog.
Ingredients in Vaccines
Most vaccines include toxic ingredients that add to the risks of vaccinating your dog.
Two of these are:
Thimerosal
This is a mercury based additive used as a preservative. Mercury toxicity is well known and repeatedly proven in studies. Yet it’s still contained in most veterinary vaccines today. Even some vaccines that claim to be thimerosal-free may still contain small amounts of thimerosal. That’s because it can be used in processing but not added as an ingredient, so the manufacturers don’t have to disclose it.
Gentamicin
This is an antibiotic. According to the FDA (US Food and Drug Administration), antibiotics are in vaccines to prevent bacterial infection during manufacturing, So when your dog gets a vaccine, he’s getting antibiotics whether you like it or not. [Related] These aren’t the only dangerous ingredients in dog vaccines. Find more here.
If your veterinarian presses you to over-vaccinate your dog with core vaccines, you can draw her attention to Dr Schultz’s research. Dr Schultz’s studies show the minimum duration of immunity that likely protects your dog for life once he’s had his core vaccines as a puppy or adult.
If your vet needs more convincing, you can ask for titers to confirm your dog’s protected. Some vets charge an exorbitant amount for titers (perhaps because they really don’t want to do them) and some may even refuse.
If that’s the case, you can ask your vet to draw the blood for you (usually about a $15 to $20 charge) and then send it yourself to Hemopet for testing. You can submit your titer request on Hemopet’s website. A distemper and parvo titer costs only $52 and you can ship the vial of blood for about $6 via a US Postal Service Small Flat Rate Box.
For Non-Core Vaccines
Your vet is likely to recommend Bordetella and Leptospirosis vaccines, as well as Lyme if you live in a high tick area. All of these vaccines carry a high risk for your dog and don’t work very well. Check the vaccine issues listed on the chart, and also consider these points before vaccinating your dog.
Bordetella: If you board your dog, try to find a kennel that doesn’t require Bordetella. If your kennel does, ask to sign a waiver accepting the risk of your dog getting kennel cough on their premises … that’s what worries them. Or better yet, have a pet-sitter come to your home and then you don’t need to worry about vaccination requirements.
Leptospirosis: If you think your dog is at risk for lepto, make sure you find out from your local health authority what strains of lepto are in your area. The vaccine covers the L. canicola, L. icterohaemorrhagiae, L.grippotyphosa and L.pomona serovars. If these strains aren’t prevalent where you live, there is no point in taking the risk of vaccinating your dog.
Also note that some vets give the Leptospirosis vaccine in conjunction with core vaccines. You may see a vaccine called something like DHLPP. That “L” is leptospirosis … make sure you know what vaccines your vet is using. Your dog could still get the lepto shot.
Lyme: if your dog’s not out in the woods picking up ticks, he’s probably not at risk for Lyme disease. If you do take your dog into tick-infested areas, use natural protection methods to keep the ticks away. Check him thoroughly for ticks when you get home. Removing the ticks promptly will help prevent the tick from infecting him.
So which dog vaccines are necessary? That’s a question only you can answer!
Julia Henriques is Managing Editor of Dogs Naturally Magazine. She's on the Board of Playing Again Sams (Wisconsin Samoyed Rescue) where she enjoys helping adopters and group members choose more natural health care options for their dogs. She lives in Chicago with her partner Marc and two rescue Samoyeds.
There is a great deal of confusion surrounding the term socialization and what it means for a puppy. The term comes from the description of specific stages of canine development. A pup goes through two socialization periods. In the primary socialization period they learn how to be a dog, in the human socialization period they learn how to navigate our complex world and everything in it. Combined, these development stages comprise only about 10 weeks; starting at about 3 weeks and ending at about 14 weeks of age. What happens or doesn’t happen during this time has a lasting effect on a puppy.
What Socialization is NOT
• A pup on leash meeting other dogs on leash.
• A puppy getting pets from the neighbor while you stand back and watch.
• A puppy sequestered in the house or yard until he has all his shots.
What’s The Big Deal?
Lacking a comprehensive understanding about this stage of development can literally make or break the quality of your dog’s life. If a puppy misses out on lots of positive early introductions during this time, serious behavioral issues are likely to develop. It’s crucial to have a robust game plan. You must be organized and strategic. Use our Social Schedule to stay on track, and use the Field Trip Worksheet to think critically about your outings. During this time social expeditions must be part of your daily routine.
Have you ever caught your dog running in circles at top speed around the backyard or house? I’m sure you wondered what he was doing. Was he stung by a bee, spooked by something, or had he turned into a wild animal? Chances are it was simply a case of the dog zoomies.
According to Los Angeles-based Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist Jill Goldman, Ph.D., zoomies are a type of Frenetic Random Activity Period (FRAP) where a dog seems to suddenly explode with energy. “They are bursts of energy like a volcano. Energy builds up then there is the expression and release of that energy.” Usually, with the zoomies, a dog will show repetitive behavior like running around in circles, taking laps around the yard, or continuously circling the dining room table.
Goldman explains that dogs engage in the zoomies when, “they have some form of excess energy that’s been contained such as physical energy, like when they’ve been crated, or nervous energy, like when they have tolerated an uncomfortable situation.” The chance to finally release that energy can lead to seemingly wild FRAPping behavior. “Anytime your dog has been denied the opportunity to express his natural energy levels; you can predict a case of the zoomies.”
When do Zoomies Happen?
Given that zoomies are a way for dogs to get their energy out, they often happen first thing in the morning after dogs have rested all night. They can also happen later in the day for dogs that have been confined in a crate or haven’t been walked. Stressful situations like being restrained, a bath or grooming session, or a trip to the vet can also lead to the zoomies. Even a good poop can send some canines running around in circles.
And it’s not just puppies that zoom. Dogs of any age can participate in the behavior. But Goldman says the younger the dog, the more often you can expect it. “The more energy a dog has and the fewer opportunities to exert that energy, the more often you’ll see it.” Senior dogs sleep far more than young pups, so they have less energy to exert in the first place, but without the chance to express themselves appropriately, they can feel the need to zoom too.
The zoomies are a normal and natural dog behavior. Not all dogs participate, but those that do often seem gleeful, as if they are having a fabulous time. In fact, play bows often go hand in hand with the behavior. As dogs are finally letting out their pent-up energy, it’s no wonder they seem to be having so much fun.
Are Zoomies Safe?
But are zoomies safe? As long as there are no obstacles to get in the way and harm your dog in the process, Goldman says it’s fine to let your dog’s zoomies run their course.
When you see the zoomies coming on, like after a trip to the bathtub, be sure your dog is in a safe place. Perhaps a carpeted room to prevent slipping and falling, and certainly away from delicate trinkets on the coffee table. Or let your dog zoom in a fully fenced yard where he can’t get into any trouble. Allow your dog to enjoy himself and get it out of his system.
As fun as they look, is there ever a time when the zoomies are cause for concern? Goldman suggests tracking your dog’s zooming behavior. If you chart when the zoomies are happening, you can understand why they’re happening. Perhaps it’s just after a bath for example. Occasionally is fine, but a dog that zooms frequently might be one that is spending too much time in the crate or dealing with too much stress. “If they’re often happening in the house, then you’re probably not giving your dog enough physical and mental stimulation,” she suggests.
A dog that engages in the zoomies all the time could also be a sign of a bigger problem. “It’s important to make a distinction between normal zoomies and compulsive behavior like excessive tail chasing or chasing shadows continuously,” says Goldman. If you have any concerns about your dog’s zoomies, such as them happening all the time or in stressful situations, consult a certified applied animal behaviorist or a veterinary behaviorist to help get to the bottom of the situation.
Puppy teeth – yes indeed they do hurt! Puppy biting is a perfectly natural behavior. Puppies use their mouths to explore their surroundings; nothing is sacred from puppy teeth. They also use their teeth when playing. Fortunately, this is something they usually grow out of when they lose their puppy teeth at around sixteen weeks. Puppies themselves learn that their teeth are sharp when they are still with their mother and littermates. They begin to hurt their mother’s teat when feeding and she will get up and walk away. The pup learns there is a consequence to using teeth. They also learn the consequences of using their teeth too hard when playing with their littermates. If they use their teeth too enthusiastically the game will end one way or another. Either their littermate will yell in pain and stop playing or they may end up fighting.
Remember that dogs only have one defense if they are in pain, frightened or cornered and that is to use teeth. This does not make a bad dog it is simply dog behavior!
Your job is to teach the dog that teeth on human skin are not allowed! You also need to teach him to have a soft mouth. To help him learn to inhibit his bite you need to act like a playmate. Never use your hands or body as a toy when playing with your puppy. Instead use a suitable toy.
If your puppy catches your skin or clothes when you are playing yell ‘ouch’ – a good high-pitched yell is needed as though he really hurt you. Get up, move away from your puppy and stop playing. Redirect his teeth onto something more acceptable, a stuffed Kong, the cardboard innards of toilet roll or kitchen roll, a toy or a nylabone or chew. (Don’t give your puppy cheap plastic toys to chew, as they can be dangerous if swallowed.)
Many puppies under 14 weeks will back off when you yell then come back and lick you. Praise and redirect the play onto something appropriate. Some puppies will see the yell as a cue to lunge at you even harder. These puppies are usually over stimulated, over tired or perhaps Terriers! Do not shout, do not use a water pistol, do not scruff or shake, simply remain calm, get up and walk away. Ensure your puppy is getting enough rest during the day – especially if you have children. Place your puppy on a good diet as some diets have been implicated in effecting behavior. Make sure that everyone in the household treats your puppy the same way. Children should always be supervised when they interact with your puppy, as young children tend to flap their arms around squealing, which only excites the puppy.
Stopping a puppy play biting takes time and consistency. Puppies will latch onto to anything that moves – your trouser leg, the bottom of your dressing gown and your toes! Why, because it gets a reaction from the owner. If this happens, stop walking. Do not get into a game of tug with your trouser leg or dressing gown. Try and redirect your puppy onto something more acceptable. Being proactive instead of reactive will safely teach your puppy where and when he can use his teeth.
Last but not least, Shepard is now “Bernie”! This sweet boy is going to live the beach life in beautiful Pacific Grove, CA, with Barbara and Jon. He is an old soul with a kind and gentle temperament. He joins another Moonlight family member, big brother Ember (2014 Spenser/Zene Litter) and we know they will become fast friends. We look forward to seeing his debut in the show ring soon.
Sheldon, now “Oslo” is going home with experienced Vizsla owners Sam and Eckhard who are dedicated to spending each and every day filled with fun activities and training and are devoted to giving their new puppy the best life possible. Oslo is the whole package! He is sweet, inquisitive, so very handsome and eager to please. This pup is sure to be a showstopper in the show ring.
