Group Photo!

Shep, Sheridan, Sheldon, Sherman

"I don’t want a show dog; I just want a pet" by Ruffly Speaking Blog

I don’t want a show dog; I just want a pet.

by Joanna Kimball on July 13, 2010

This is one of the most pervasive sentiments that puppy buyers, especially families, express when they're looking for a dog. What they really mean, of course, is that they don't want a show BREEDER – don't want to pay the high price they think show breeders charge, don't want to go through the often-invasive interview process, and think that they're getting a better deal or a real bargain because they can get a Lab for $300 or a Shepherd for $150.

I want you to change your mind. I want you to not only realize the benefits of buying a show-bred dog, I want you to INSIST on a show-bred dog. And I want you to realize that the cheap dog is really the one that's the rip-off. And then I want you to go be obnoxious and, when your workmate says she's getting a puppy because her neighbor, who raises them, will give her one for free, or when your brother-in-law announces that they're buying a goldendoodle for the kids, I want you to launch yourself into their solar plexus and steal their wallets and their car keys.

Here's why:

If I ask you why you want a Maltese, or a Lab, or a Leonberger, or a Cardigan, I would bet you're not going to talk about how much you like their color. You're going to tell me things about personality, ability (to perform a specific task), relationships with other animals or humans, size, coat, temperament, and so on. You'll describe playing ball, or how affectionate you've heard that they are, or how well they get along with kids.

The things you will be looking for aren't the things that describe just "dog"; they'll be the things that make this particular breed unique and unlike other breeds.

That's where people have made the right initial decision – they've taken the time and made the effort to understand that there are differences between breeds and that they should get one that at least comes close to matching their picture of what they want a dog to be.

Their next step, tragically, is that they go out and find a dog of that breed for as little money and with as much ease as possible.

You need to realize that when you do this, you're going to the used car dealership, WATCHING them pry the "Audi" plate off a new car, observing them as they use Bondo to stick it on a '98 Corolla, and then writing them a check and feeling smug that you got an Audi for so little.

It is no bargain.

Those things that distinguish the breed you want from the generic world of "dog" are only there because somebody worked really hard to get them there. And as soon as that work ceases, the dog, no matter how purebred, begins to revert to the generic. That doesn't mean you won't get a good dog – the magic and the blessing of dogs is that they are so hard to mess up, in their good souls and minds, that even the most hideously bred one can still be a great dog – but it will not be a good Shepherd, or good Puli, or a good Cardigan. You will not get the specialized abilities, tendencies, or talents of the breed.

If you don't NEED those special abilities or the predictability of a particular breed, you should not be buying a dog at all. You should go rescue one. That way you're saving a life and not putting money in pockets where it does not belong.

If you want a purebred and you know that a rescue is not going to fit the bill, the absolute WORST thing you can do is assume that a name equals anything. They really are nothing more than name plates on cars. What matters is whether the engineering and design and service department back up the name plate, so you have some expectation that you're walking away with more than a label.

Keeping a group of dogs looking and acting like their breed is hard, HARD work. If you do not get the impression that the breeder you're considering is working that hard, is that dedicated to the breed, is struggling to produce dogs that are more than a breed name, you are getting no bargain; you are only getting ripped off.

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Rest of the blog is also excellent https://rufflyspeaking.wordpress.com

First Meal! 🐐 🥛

The Fab Four are enjoying soaked kibble and goats milk! 

What is the value of Puppy Culture?

Jane Messineo Lindquist

I'd like to give a general response to the common question which generally goes like this:

"I recommended Puppy Culture (https://goo.gl/W8JwhH) to a breeder and they say they already do ENS and toys and socialization and don't need Puppy Culture. I would like to encourage the breeder to use Puppy Culture but I don't want to be confrontational. How can I explain the value of Puppy Culture succinctly?"

My answer:

I think the biggest advantage to Puppy Culture for breeders who might already be doing a some or even all of the protocols in the film is that Puppy Culture gives a more organized approach.

Obviously, I was doing everything that is in Puppy Culture before I made the film, but it was more seat of the pants - I can definitely say that, even for myself, my litters have benefitted since I made the film.

When I was making the film I had to ask myself why and make a case for every protocol at every juncture - this is what led to my reaching out to so many additional vets and experts. And, based on this research, I made subtle but powerful changes to when and how and why I did things, and that has had a remarkable effect on my own litters.

And I do see my litters differently now, I see more details about when and how different things happen behaviorally and I'm just more in tune with what each individual puppy needs when. Whereas before we would do certain things at certain times and then "diagnose" the puppies as being good or bad at things, distracted or checked in and attribute many behavioral things to "temperament," I now have less of a blanket approach.

I have a more nuanced view of development and I understand that different traits and abilities can emerge differently and at different times and I am less likely to saddle a puppy with a "label" and more likely to work with the puppy to tease out the strengths in that puppy's character. Still all the same protocols, but weaving them in and out differently.

So, in sum, Puppy Culture is not about the "What," of raising puppies, it's about the "Why," - obviously a perfect framework for a new breeder but certainly also a "booster" for any puppy rearing program, even if they are physically doing all the protocols in Puppy Culture!

10 Reasons Not to Use a Retractable Leash

Adapted from the WDJ article (source below):

There’s an old joke about if there’s one thing that two dog trainers can agree on, it’s that the third one is doing it wrong. But, I’ve found something that very nearly ALL dog trainers agree on, and that I will defend anywhere, anytime, and it’s this: Retractable leashes have no place in dog training.

It almost reaches the level of a joke: If you go to a dog park or almost any gathering of dog people and their dogs, the worst-behaved dogs will be the ones on retractable leashes. It’s sort of a chicken or the egg thing: What came first, the poorly behaved dog or the leash that teaches him nothing?

They aren't good for adult dogs, and never a puppy.

10 Reasons Not to Use a Retractable Leash

1. The length of retractable leashes (name brand: Flexi), some of which can extend up to 26 feet, allows dogs to get far enough away from their humans that a situation can quickly turn dangerous. A dog on a retractable leash is often able to run into the middle of the street, for example, or make uninvited contact with other dogs or people.
2. In the above scenario, or one in which your pet is being approached by an aggressive dog, it is nearly impossible to get control of the situation if the need arises. It's much easier to regain control of – or protect -- a dog at the end of a six-foot standard flat leash than it is if he's 20 or so feet away at the end of what amounts to a thin string.
3. The thin cord of a retractable leash can break – especially when a powerful dog is on the other end of it. If a strong, good-sized dog takes off at full speed, the cord can snap. Not only can that put the dog and whatever he may be chasing in danger, but also the cord can snap back and injure the human at the other end.
4. If a dog walker gets tangled up in the cord of a retractable leash, or grabs it in an attempt to reel in their dog, it can result in burns, cuts, and even amputation. In addition, many people have been pulled right off their feet by a dog that reaches the end of the leash and keeps going. This can result in bruises, "road rash," broken bones, and worse.
5. Dogs have also received terrible injuries as a result of the sudden jerk on their neck that occurs when they run out the leash, including neck wounds, lacerated tracheas, and injuries to the spine.
6. Retractable leashes allow dogs more freedom to pull at the end of them, which can look like aggression to another dog who may decide to "fight back."
7. The handles of retractable leashes are bulky and can be easily pulled out of human hands, resulting in a runaway dog.
8. Along those same lines, many dogs – especially fearful ones – are terrorized by the sound of a dropped retractable leash handle and may take off running, which is dangerous enough. To make matters worse, the object of the poor dog's fear is then "chasing" her, and if the leash is retracting as she runs, the handle is gaining ground on her – she can't escape it. Even if this scenario ultimately ends without physical harm to the dog (or anyone else), it can create lingering fear in the dog not only of leashes, but also of being walked.
9. Retractable leashes, like most retractable devices, have a tendency to malfunction over time, either refusing to extend, refusing to retract, or unspooling at will.
10. Retractable leashes are an especially bad idea for dogs that haven't been trained to walk politely on a regular leash. By their very nature, retractables train dogs to pull while on leash, because they learn that pulling extends the lead.

Full Article: http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2014/06/11/retractable-dog-leash.aspx?x_cid=20141014_ranart_petretracableleash_facebookdoc

More reading:  Reel It In - Why I Don't Like Retractable Leashes - https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/blog/Retractable-leashes-in-dog-training-21740-1.html?ET=wholedogjournal:e286358:821510a:&st=email&s=p_Blog110917

Puppy Stage : Transitive Period Week 2-3

Puppy Development: Transitive Period Week 2-3

• This is when brain development quickly ramps up to bring the pup out of the neonate stage. Mentally, the change is as drastic as a caterpillar’s metamorphosis into a butterfly, or a tadpole’s transformation into a frog. It begins with the pup opening their eyes at approximately 14+ days of age, and is shortly followed by ears opening five to ten days later.
• These experiences a marked increase in brain activity during this period, showing a stark contrast with the activity of the neonate. The puppy can now crawl forward and backward, and can finally attempt to take their first steps. They will also begin moving beyond the nesting area to eliminate without the assistance of his mother, and his interest in solid foods will increase, even though weaning won’t occur until seven to eight weeks of age. 
• The pup will engage in play fighting and posturing throughout the transition period. He will also begin to practice using social signals, such as growling, pawing, and tail wagging. Much to the dismay of his owner, the puppy will also exhibit signs of distress for reasons other than being cold or hungry. At this time, being separated from his littermates, being introduced to a new environment, or accidentally wandering too far from the nest will cause him to cry. Additionally, his ability to learn from training won’t reach full capacity until around four to five weeks of age.

2 Week Old Mugshots!

The babies are starting to get peepers 👀

"Sherman" Orange Collar 

"Sheridan" Purple Collar

"Sheldon" Grey Collar

"Shepard" Olive Collar

Puppy Stage : Birth / Neonatal to 2 Weeks

The Sugar & Spice babies turned two weeks old on December 15th!  Here's a recap of their development from birth until now,  they spend  most of their time doing the eat, sleep and repeat routine. 

Puppy Development: Neonatal (Day 1 to 2 weeks)

• Newborn puppies cannot regulate their body temperature and must be kept warm. If allowed to chill they can develop infections, pneumonia and digestive issues. The temp in the room is set to 76-80F degrees. Puppies were born and spend the first three weeks of their life in a temperature controlled nursery (i.e. spare bedroom). 
• Their eyes and ears are not open, and they depend upon smell and body temperature to find their mothers to nurse. 
• They sleep 90% of the time and when awake crawl in a circle, moving their heads from side to side to find their mothers. 
• It is paramount at this stage that the mother is not stressed so she can focus on the needs of her puppies. As you've seen from the photos (and soon from puppy cam) Zene is a fabulous and experienced mom. She knows it's okay to take a break from the pups to come visit the rest of us (and I encourage that) or take a quick spin outside to burn off some energy/go potty. 
• Newborn puppies can not relieve themselves on their own. Their mothers have to lick their bottoms to stimulate them to go potty (#1 and #2).

What is Fear Barking?

Fear Barking Dog Problem: 10 Steps to a Solution

Solve a barking dog problem with positive methods that work.

Does your dog show aggressive dog behaviors like barking? Are you feeling frustrated and scared? Here you will find the best way to stop dogs from barking.

But, can you stop a dog from barking? Yes! With patience, training, practice and kindness you will help your pet relax, understand you and do what you ask.

Many dogs bark out of fear and this article addressed these particular cases. If you think your dog barks for other reasons (boredom, excitement, guarding, etc) visit the Barking Main Page for more help.

The training methods outlined here require no more than treats and practice. However, if you find it difficult for your dog to relax or learn, then you may need to visit your vet for meds for aggressive dogs. These will only be needed in some cases and your vet should work along with your training plan to reduce medication as the dog progresses.

Understanding fear and stress in your dog . . .

Almost all dogs are afraid of something and most of the time this is not a problem because it does not show very often.

If you are reading this it's probably because your dog is afraid of things that he encounters daily and barking is his way of dealing with it.

To understand why this happens lets learn a little biology. Animals have three biological mechanisms to deal with threats:

Fight: It may start with a mild aggressive dog behavior like barking and escalate to growling, snapping and biting. This option could get one or both parties involved injured!
Flight: The dog will try to escape and put as much distance as possible between him and the scary subject/object.
Freeze: The hound will stay as still as possible (maybe that threatening thing won't see him).

The majority of dogs do not like to get into fights, this is a dangerous thing to do, flight is much safer. But if they are in a situation in which they can't escape (for example, on a leash), they will go into "fight" mode. Fight mode starts with barking. This usually is all it takes to scare a person or another animal away. Now your hound has learned that barking keeps him safe, he will continue doing so and you have a barking dog problem!

Important: NEVER punish your dog for barking. If you don't let your canine friend bark, he will bite!

Another important aspect of fear aggression in dogs is STRESS. When your dog is in fear, stress hormones (like glucocorticoids) are released in his body. The purpose of these hormones is to keep the animal alert for the next 2-7 days in case a similar scary situation happens (then the reaction is even faster!).

The problem with stress hormones is that they can accumulate every time your dog faces a threatening situation. The more they accumulate the jumpier your hound gets.

So, if your dog is afraid of other dogs and you take him to the park every day…guess what? He probably has chronic stress. This is emotionally exhausting and harming. Stress also decreases learning, so your pooch is not in an open frame of mind to hear what you want to teach him to solve this barking dog problem.

How to solve this? You are in control of your pet's life. Make a big difference in his routine.

More reading: https://www.dog-training-excellence.com/barking-dog-problem.html

Sweet dreamers! 💜🧡💚🖤💤😴🐑🐶

The Sugar & Spice Babies with "Lamby"

Thank You for the toys, Amy!

Check instagram for the video version: https://www.instagram.com/p/BrQu336hH8uFliy-NqrsL8dtzgVss8BzI06xrY0/

Pretty babies!

Sheldon 🖤 Shep 💚

Sherman 🧡 Sheridan 💜 

The unspoken risks of spay/neuter 👀

No time like the present to educate yourself on the unspoken risks of spay/neuter. Please take a few moments to read about this important topic, full article at https://www.dogsfirst.ie/health-issues/dog-neutering/ As discussed with our future Moonlight puppy owners, Vizslas need to remain intact until at least 24 months old.

The Scientifically Proven Negative Side Effects of Dog Neutering Before Puberty

Source: Dogfirst.com

The early neutering of dogs is not without it’s side effects or critics, and I’m certainly one of them. But please, before the heavily stressed and over-worked shelter staff post up about overpopulation problems (I spent a couple of years in them too), lets look at this issue with less emotion and more science.

1. Cancer

It is well documented in the literature that by removing the gonads in developing animals you certainly prevent the possible occurrence of gonadal cancers such as various forms of testicular, prostate and ovarian cysts and cancer. I think that goes that without saying. If you have no prostate you’re not going to get prostate cancer. I think we’re clear on that one.

But if ignore the fact that gonadal and mammary cancers are rare enough in the general dog population, dogs are known to recover very well from testicular cancer following diagnosis and castration, Furthermore while between 30-50% of mammary cancers are malignant in dogs and, when caught and surgically removed early the prognosis is very good in dogs (Brodey et al. 1983, Meuten 2002).

Also, while these possible cancers of your pet will be avoided, numerous studies show that removing the sex organs early in the developmental period of an animal causes cancer in your pet, just not in their testes or ovaries.

A study in the Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine, compiled over 13 years found that “… neutering dogs appeared to increase the risk of cardiac tumour in both sexes”. The results showed that spayed females were five times more likely to suffer tumours of the heart than intact females (Ware and Hopper 1999), one of the three most common cancers in dogs today.

In another study spanning 14 years of research and involving 3062 purebred dogs with osteosarcoma compared to 3959 purebred dogs without osteosarcoma, it was concluded that sterilisation increased the risk for bone cancer in large breed purebreds twofold (Ru et al. 1998).

Upon further investigation using 683 male and female Rottweilers spayed or neutered before one year of age, both sexes were found to be significantly more likely to develop bone cancer than intact dogs with early sterilisation bestowing a staggering 25% likelihood of bone cancer in your Rottweiler (Cooley et al.2002).

In a study of 759 intact and neutered golden retrievers Torres de la Riva et al. (2013) and found significant issues associated in neutered dogs. Almost 10 percent of early-neutered males were diagnosed with lymphosarcoma, 3 times more than intact males.

It’s often stated that neutering a male dog will prevent prostate cancer but some authors refute this on the basis that “ non-testicular androgens exert a significant influence on the canine prostate”. The College of Veterinary Medicine at Michigan State University found “…castration at any age showed no sparing effect on the risk of development of prostate cancer in the dog“.

All these considered, it’s hard to argue the cancer benefits to neutering early or you end up playing the whole “I see your very slight chance of testicular cancer and raise you a certain increase in bone and heart tumours”.

2. Abnormal Bone Growth and Development

Testosterone and oestrogen play pivotal roles in the development of your muscles and bones. It stands to reason that if you remove testosterone and oestrogen from the vital and dramatic puberty growth phase there will be consequences to that individual’s height, muscle mass and bone formation of the individual, compared to an intact animal of the same size and breeding. Studies show this to be absolutely the case.

Early Neutered Animals Are Taller

A study by Stubbs and Bloomberg (1995) set out to answer the following theory: Oestrogen tells the growth plates to stop. Thus if you remove the oestrogen-producing organs in immature dogs, female and male, you could expect cause growth plates to remain open and the dog to grow longer bones. They divided dogs and cats into three groups. Group one was neutered at 7 wks, group two at 7 months, and group three remained unneutered. They found that “early spay/neuter may result in a slight increase in adult height”. The earlier the spay the taller the dog.

A study by Salmeri et al. in 1991 found that bitches spayed at 7 weeks grew significantly taller than those spayed at 7 months and that those spayed at 7 months had significantly delayed closure of the growth plates than those not spayed (or presumably spayed after the growth plates had closed).

A survey of 1444 1yr old Golden Retriever owners by the Golden Retriever Club of America Inc., found bitches and dogs spayed and neutered at less than a year of age were significantly taller than those spayed or neutered at more than a year of age.

While it stands to reason that being taller in itself is not an issue per se, in that it is assumed with the removal of the gonads closure of all of the physes will be delayed resulting in longer bones, it could also be assumed that this longer growth would be proportional across the joint. If this was the stand-alone orthopaedic concern in neutered dogs it may not concern us. It is when this extra growth is considered in relation to the increased risk of cruciate rupture and hip dysplasia, discussed below.

Increased Cruciate Rupture

Thus with no oestrogen to shut it down, these animals can continue to grow and wind up with abnormal growth patterns and bone structure. This results in irregular body proportions.

Grumbach (2000) quotes Chris Zink, DVM to explain the problem with neutering males and females early and cruciate rupture – “For example, if the femur has achieved its genetically determined normal length at 8 months when a dog gets spayed or neutered, but the tibia, which normally stops growing at 12 to 14 months of age continues to grow, then an abnormal angle may develop at the stifle. In addition, with the extra growth, the lower leg below the stifle likely becomes heavier (because it is longer), and may cause increased stresses on the cranial cruciate ligament.”

This is verified with a study by Slauterbeck et al. (2004) who found that spayed and neutered dogs had a significantly higher incidence of ACL rupture than their intact counterparts, regardless of breed or size.

In their study of 759 golden retrievers, Torres de la Riva et al. (2013) noted that while there were no cases of cranial cruciate ligament tear diagnosed in intact males or females, in early-neutered males and females the occurrences were 5 percent and 8 percent, respectively.

Increased Risk of Hip Dysplasia

A study by the Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine and published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association showed that both male and female dogs sterilised at an early age were more prone to hip dysplasia.

In their study of 759 golden retrievers Torres de la Riva et al. (2013) noted that of early-neutered males, 10 percent were diagnosed with hip dysplasia, double the occurrence than in intact males.

In a study of 1,842 dogs Spain et al. (2004) found that dogs spayed or neutered before 5 1/2 months had a significantly higher incidence of hip dysplasia than those spayed or neutered after 5 1/2 months of age. However it would be remiss of me not to add at this point that the same authors went on to note that the authors noted that dogs neutered at the traditional age were three times more likely to be

euthanised for the condition as compared to the early age group, leading the authors to suggest that early age gonadectomy may be associated with a less severe form of hip dysplasia.

3. Longevity

Waters et al. (2009) found that neutering female Rottweilers before four years of age reduces life expectancy by 30%. Females that kept their ovaries the longest were nine times more likely to achieve exceptional longevity (13+ years).

The lead author of the study notes: Like women, female dogs in our study had a distinct survival advantage over males, but taking away ovaries during the first four years of life completely erased the female survival advantage. We found that female Rottweilers that kept their ovaries for at least six years were four times more likely to reach exceptional longevity (13yrs of age) compared to females who had the shortest lifetime ovary exposure.

4. Increased Risk of Hypothyroidism 

When one hormone producing organ is removed, other organs will be forced to pick up the slack. This can over stress an organ which can suffer as a result. Both Panciera (1994) and  Glickman et al. (1999) found spayed and neutered dogs to be more likely to develop hypothyroidism.

5. Increased Risk of Incontinence

Both Spain et al. (2004) and Stöcklin-Gautschi et al. (2001) found early neutering increases the risk of urinary incontinence by 4-20% in females. Interestingly Aaron et al. (1996) noted that neutering it is associated with an increased likelihood of urethral sphincter incontinence in males also.

6. Increased Risk of Disease

Very early neutering increases the risk of disease in dogs. A study of shelter dogs conducted by the College of Veterinary Medicine at Texas A&M University concluded that infectious diseases were more common in dogs that were sterilised at less than 24 weeks of age.

7. Behavioural Considerations

Spain et al. (2004) also noted an increase in undesirable sexual behaviours but also an increase in unsoundness, showing early age gonadectomy was associated with an increased incidence of noise phobias. I can personally testify to this from Guide Dogs. All our non-breeding training dogs were neutered at 6mths and sometimes there’d be five or six in a line humping each other.

More worryingly Spain et al. (2004) noted an increase in aggression towards family members, barking or growling at visitors, and excessive barking that bothered a household member in male dogs neutered before 5 and a half months.

But then again the same study found that dogs neutering dogs before 5 and a half months resulted in a decrease in escaping behaviour, separation anxiety, and urinating in the house when frightened!

Thus it’s hard to deduct anything concrete from this study. Perhaps as Spain et al. (2004) were using questionnaires, whereby lay people and vets were interpreting the data as opposed to trained behaviourists more could have been gleaned from this study.

In another study Hart (2001) found that in dogs affected with some form of cognitive impairment the “percentage of dogs that progressed from being mildly impaired (i.e., impairments in 1 behavioural category) at the time of the first interview to being severely impaired (ie, impairments in > 2 categories) at the time of the second interview was significantly higher for neutered than sexually intact male dogs.” In other words, mental issues could get worse in neutered dogs.

Have you checked out Puppy Culture?

https://shoppuppyculture.com/pages/puppy-owners

Puppy Culture is a guiding hand for you and your puppy.

Our team of experts have bred, raised, and trained thousands of dogs, and we know from first hand experience what works best. We make that vast experience available to you, broken down into clear instructions, in short chapters that are easy and fun to watch. 

How you teach your puppy is as important as what you teach your puppy.

Studies have shown that many common training techniques can actually increase aggression and problem behaviors, which can damage the human-animal bond. The Puppy Culture program will show you how to train your dog while enriching your bond with him, every step of the way.  

Real life proof that it works.

Most puppy training videos appear to have been shot in one weekend, using a few easy-to-train puppies. How do you know those training techniques really work in the long run? Unlike other films, Puppy Culture tracks one litter over three years, so you can see the true results of our program. You’ll see the puppies overcome real and varied behavior challenges and ultimately grow to gentle, well-behaved adult dogs.

The truth about socialization.

During this sensitive time, the puppy is as vulnerable to imprinting negative experiences as he is to imprinting good experiences. This means you need a good plan for socializing your puppy.  Your Puppy Culture team gives you a plan and guides you through the process.

How to be your puppy's advocate.

It can be difficult to stand up to a person in a position of authority, such as a veterinarian or a dog trainer, but you need to learn what’s right and wrong for your puppy, and stand up against bad advice.  Puppy Culture’s veterinarians, behaviorists, and breeders give you the facts to know when you’re right, and the conviction to walk away from anything that might harm your puppy.

The Sugar & Spice babies start ENS today

We have been performing Early Neurological Stimulation, otherwise called E.N.S. or the Bio Sensor / “Super Dog” Program since 2009. Once the work of the military, noted breeder, author, lecturer and researcher, Dr. Carmen Battaglia is the main driving force behind why many breeders now know of this program.

We also incorporate Jane Lindquist’s “Puppy Culture” socialization methods as a preliminary training for all our puppies.

Both programs help allow our puppies to get off to a better start in life through sound desensitization, socialization, clicker conditioning, and much more. The goal in adding these programs to our breeding protocol is to help condition your new puppy to have better startle recovery, be curious rather than unsure of new objects as well as people, teach them how to learn so that training is smoother and to allow for an overall easier transition to their new life with you. 

Early Neurological Stimulation

As previous scientific research has proven, early stimulation exercises can have positive impacts long-term on a variety of species. While there is no specific amount of time that is stated to be optimal, some amounts can be too much and cause pathological adversities. The military began this early stimulation program and saw important, lasting results with their dogs.

With Early Neurological Stimulation (hereafter ENS), exercises begin at day three of life until day sixteen as this interval of time is believed to be a time of rapid neurological development and growth. There are five exercises which are conducted on each individual puppy for 3 – 5 seconds each. 

Head held erect

Head pointed down

Tactile stimulation

Supine position

Thermal stimulation

These exercises produce neurological stimulation that would not occur naturally until much later in their lives. They do not get repeated more than once a day, so we do not overload the puppy.

Dogs that received ENS as puppies had:
Stronger adrenal glands
Higher tolerance of stress
Greater resistance to disease
Stronger heart beats
Improved cardio vascular performance

To learn more about ENS, read Dr. Carmen Battaglia’s article on his website here.

Also check out this clip from Puppy Culture to see how the different ENS exercises are performed.

Are you ready to get a puppy?

Sharing from Vizsla Puppies Facebook group -- A MUST READ!

Ready everyone??!!  Before you buy your first puppy, take this test to find out if you can cope with living and looking after your puppy:

This test is best taken in the autumn or mid winter!

1. Buy a lead and tie it to a big stone, walk around dragging the stone behind you

2. Get up at 5am, go out in the pouring rain and walk up and down a muddy path, repeating good girl/boy, wee wees...poo poos, quickly please

3. Stuff your pockets with plastic bags and pick up all the poo you can find, obviously not your dogs as you have not bought it yet

4. Start wearing your shoes indoors, especially during muddy times

5. Collect leaves off the ground and spread them on the floor

6. Carry sticks and branches indoors and chop them up on your carpet

7. Pour cold applejuice on the rug and floor....walk barefooted over it in the dark

8. Drop some chocolate pudding on your carpet in the morning and then try to clean it in the evening

9. Wear socks to which you have made holes using a blender

10. Jump out of your favourite chair just before the movie ends and run to open the back door

11. Cover all your best clothes with dog hair, dark clothes with blond hairs and light clothes with dark hairs

12. Tip all just ironed clothes on the floor

13. Make little pin holes in all your funiture, especially chair and table legs

14. When doing dishes, splash water all over the place and don't wipe it.

15. Spread toilet paper all over the house when you leave the house and tidy up when you get back home

16. Forget any impulse holidays and/or breaks

17. Always go home straight after work or school

18. Go walkies no matter what the weather, and inspect every dirty paper, chewing gum and dead fly you might find

19. Stand at your back door at five in the morning shouting " bring Mr Bumble and Mr Lion in, its raining

20. Wake up at 3am. Place a correct size bag of flour on top of yourself and try to sleep, whilst wiping your face with a dishcloth, which you have left next to your bed in a bowl last week

Repeat everyday over 6 months and if you still think getting a puppy sounds like a good idea, Congratulations, you might be ready to get your puppy. 😆😆😆

The snuggle is real!

Baby Shepard (Olive Boy) on mom's paw 💚

Harley and her brood

A video - Dr. Andy Roark "All About Vizslas"

See link below to watch video!

Video by Dr. Andy Roark, "All About Vizslas!

Thinking about adding a new furry family member? Considering a Vizsla? In this episode of Cone of Shame, we're talking allllll about Vizslas! Having had one myself, I have a biased love for the breed, but fair warning, they're not for everyone. Watch the video to find out why!"

Link: https://www.facebook.com/DrAndyRoark/videos/vb.240745246003024/1916871951754068/?type=2&theater

Twice a day weight checks ✔

Morning weigh-in! ⚖️  Shepard (Olive Boy) looking very relaxed at his twice a day weight check. All the babies are gaining weight and Harley is keeping the babies well-fed and cared for, we are all so proud of her. 

Photo: Jen Scott 

They're here!

The babies are here! Today we welcomed the Sugar & Spice Litter (Jensie/Harley) three boys and a girl! Harley is a wonderful and doting mom and the babies are beautiful. I am sooo excited to welcome the next generation -- and I couldn't be prouder to be on this journey with Jen & Brian (Harley's owners AND expert whelper helpers!) and David & Ilene (Jensie's owners). Can't wait to watch these babies grow! In birth order:

Boy - "Sherman" Orange Collar 11.5 oz

Girl - "Sheridan" Purple Collar 7.5 oz

Boy - "Sheldon" Grey Collar 12.5 oz 

Boy - "Shepard" Olive Collar 10.8 oz

Temp drop! 🌡

We have a temperature drop -- Harley's temp was 98F this morning!

Dog labor is a 3-stage process — and if you think about it, it's sort of the same for humans. As far as I’m concerned, they are the same: pre-drugs, post-drugs, and push!

In dogs, the first stage is 12-30 hours before labor. Momma dog’s rectal temperature will drop to a low of 98 to 99 degrees. The pre-whelping decrease may only last a few hours. (About 10-14 days pre-whelping you are supposed to take the dog's temperature three times a day and keep a temperature chart.)

During this stage, momma dog will start nesting, and will develop a white to gelatinous discharge for up to 48 hours before whelping (Note: If the discharge turns bloody tinged the first puppy is imminent). Sometimes they go off food or get sick to their stomachs. Momma dog might be anxious or clingy, she might even be crampy. (For this part, I wrote in my study guide's margin: "uterine contractions make them feel like they’ve got to go to the bathroom and she has a puppy instead of poop. *Go potty with her.")

First stage lasts around 6-12 hours. Don’t leave mom alone during this time (aside from the puppy pooping issue); sometimes first time moms don’t know to free the pup from the amniotic sac and it could suffocate.

Second stage is the real deal: labor. Generally they show abdominal contractions for around 10-30 minutes. Usually you see the amniotic sac, then about three pushes later, a pup comes out. If the sac bursts and fluid comes out before you see a puppy, and the vagina dries out, you might need to help momma (using the lubricant). Normally momma pops the amniotic sac by licking/chewing it. If she doesn’t, you — the doggie midwife — need to step in and help.

Third stage immediately follows the second stage; that’s where the placenta comes out, and then the uterus takes a little break. Mrs. Uterus rests for anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour. On average, momma pops out another puppy every 30 minutes or so. Total average whelping time is 6-12 hours.

Source: https://www.petmd.com/blogs/purelypuppy/2011/june/puppy_whelping101-11280

Pretty Momma-to-be Harley

Pretty Momma-to-be Harley 

Is your Pup afraid? What are Fear Periods in Dogs?

Dog Developmental Stages: What are Fear Periods in Dogs?

Why is Rover suddenly scared of strangers? This is often a question I get from dog owners who have pretty much owned a dog who cared less about being approached by a friendly stranger and now is cowering between the owner's legs. As I attempt to assess the situation and ask several questions, I place a strong emphasis on the dog's age. Why is that? Not many dog owners are aware of the fact that dogs undergo fear periods during their developmental stages. During these distinct periods dogs may gradually become more and more fearful of situations they once appeared to be accepting of. The fear may be manifested by overly cautious behaviors, where the puppy or dog approaches people or items tentatively or defensive behaviors involving barking/lunging/growling. In some cases, dogs may act bold towards certain stimuli and uncertain with others. However, it is important to note that dogs can become fearful of specific things at any age and no generalizations can be made. Let's take a look at these fear periods and see how they affect man's best friend.

First Fear Imprint Period: 8-10 Weeks

According to Meghan E. Herron, veterinarian and Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists, this first fear period takes place between the ages of 8 to 10 weeks. During this time, the puppy is very sensitive to traumatic experiences and a single scary event may be enough to traumatize the puppy and have life-long effects on his future behaviors. The fear can be of a person, dog or object. A fear period is therefore a stage during which the puppy or dog may be more apt to perceive certain stimuli threatening.

In nature, during this time, puppies are getting out of the den and starting to explore the world around them. This is when puppies would learn under the guidance of their mom, which stimuli are threatening and non-threatening for the purpose of survival.At this stage, once they are fully mobile and outdoors, a lack of caution may cause them to easily get killed, explains Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist Patricia McConnell, in her book "For the Love of a Dog".

Coincidentally, in a domestic setting, this fear period coincides with the time most puppies are separated from their litter mates and moms and are sent to new homes. Some breeders feel that their puppies are better off adopted at a later age. This is why some decide to sell puppies at 12 weeks.

During the first fear period therefore it is important to avoid exposing the puppy to traumatic experiences. Shipping the puppy or allowing the puppy to undergo elective surgeries at this time is not recommended. Veterinarian visits and car visits should be made fun and upbeat. Stimuli and experiences puppies may find as frightening include but are not limited to: vaccines, cold examination tables, taking rectal temperatures, placing puppy on scale, nail trims and being handled by strangers.

How to Make Things Better: 

Use food to make positive associations! 

Have volunteers participate in "mock vet examinations" and use treats 

Practice giving "fake vaccinations" with a pen and use treats (for more on this read how to make dog less fearful of shots)

Make car rides fun! 

Have a DAP diffuser plugged in at home when you bring your puppy home for the first time. 

Make crate-training fun with toys and treats. 

Second Fear Period: 6 to 14 Months

While the 8 to 12 week puppy fear period is in some cases hardly noticed by puppy owners, the second fear period appears to have a much bigger impact. Rover has grown now and if he is a large breed he may even weigh 100 pounds or more! This fear period is believed to be tied to the dog's sexual maturity and growth spurts. This means that in large breeds it may develop later compared to a smaller dog. Often, this stage is also known as "teenage flakiness" according Ellen Dodge in her article "Critical Periods in Canine Development" published in the Weimaraner Magazine. October. 1989.

In the wild, dogs at this age are allowed to go on hunts with the rest of the pack. At this stage, it is important for them to learn to stick with the pack for safety, but they also need to learn about fear since they need fear for survival purposes.The message to the puppy is to run away if something unfamiliar approaches them, explain Wendy and Jack Volhard in the book Dog Training for Dummies.

Reactivity levels rise during this stage causing the dog to act defensively, become protective and more territorial. Owners often report the fear seems to pop out of nowhere. Dogs appear fearful of novel stimuli or stimuli met before but that did not trigger significant reactions. As in the first fear period, it is best to avoid traumatic experiences during this time such as shipping dogs on a plane and any other overwhelming experience. Because at this stage the owner may be dealing with a dog barking and lunging and pulling on the leash, this fear period has a bigger impact, causing the owner to worry about the dog's behavior.

How to Make Things Better: 

Continue socializing as much as possible but without exposing your dog to overwhelming situations 

Create positive associations through counter-conditioning 

Build confidence through training and confidence building sports and exercises 

Avoid traumatic experiences during this delicate phase. 

Is There a Third Fear Period?

Clarence Pfaffenberger," author of The New Knowledge Of Dog Behavior " suggests there is a third fear period taking place in early adulthood. During this time, the level of aggression may increase and the dog may appear more protective and territorial. Episodes of teenage flakiness may still occur. Some believe there may even be a fourth period as the dog reaches early adulthood, but I couldn't find reliable literature on that.

General Tips for Dealing with Fear Periods

These tips will come handy to help you deal with your pampered pooch's fear periods. However, they also work for dogs who are fearful in general. While they are effective, keep in mind that your dog's tendency for being fearful may be the work of genetics rather than a temporary problem resulting from a fear stage. To learn more about how nature and nurture molds dog behavior please read: Dog Behavior: Nature versus Nurture Debate Following are some tips to help your puppy or dog get through these frightening fear periods: 

Remain as Calm as Possible 

You can lie to your boss, but when it comes to dogs, they are masters in reading our emotions and body language. If you are overly concerned or just a bit tense about your dog acting fearfully or defensively, rest assure your dog will perceive it. Don't put tension on the leash, get tense or talk to your in worried manner. Stay relaxed and loose. 

Pretend it's No Big Deal 

Your dog feeds on your emotions. Just as mother dog would take her pups out from the den and guide the puppies through threatening and non-threatening situations, manifest to your dog that the stimuli he fears is not a big deal. Some find that saying in a casual tone "It's just a _______(fill in the blank), silly boy!" helps the dog understand it's not a big deal. 

Counter-Condition 

If your dog acts fearfully towards a certain stimuli you can try to change your dog's emotional response by using treats or anything the dog finds rewarding. The moment your dog sees the threatening stimulus give treats, the moment the threatening stimulus disappears take the treats away. The same can be done with sounds the dog finds startling, make the sound become a cue that a tasty treat is coming. What if your dog won't take treats? Most likely, the stimulus is too scary and the dog is over threshold. 

Don't Overwhelm, Desensitize! 

Work, under the threshold from a distance your dog or puppy does not react fearfully and is able to take treats. If you overwhelm and flood your puppy, you risk sensitizing your puppy which means you make him more fearful. Don' t force your puppy to interact with the feared stimulus; rather allow him to investigate whatever he fears on his own and remember to praise/reward any initiative your puppy or dog takes! 

Socialize, socialize, socialize 

Fear periods are part of a dog's developmental stages. The more your dog is exposed to stimuli and learns there is nothing to be scared about, the more confident he will be in the future when he will encounter anything intimidating. While the window of opportunity for the puppy socialization phase closes at around 14 to 16 weeks, socialization opportunties should virtually never end. 

Don't Punish the Fear 

Last but not least, avoid punishing the fear. It is appears that the majority of dog aggressive displays are due to fear; therefore, by punishing the behavior you will be only exacerbating the fear. Ignore the fear and let your dog build confidence by letting him investigate things on his own when he is ready and praising for the effort. Use force-free behavior modification such as desensitization and counterconditioning

While behaviorists have studied fear periods for some time, it is important to keep in mind that they may not occur within that exact time frame for each puppy. If your dog is going through a fear period, keep in mind that it is not the end of the world. With guidance, desensitization and counter conditioning, your puppy or dog should recover nicely with time.

For further reading: "Can you reinforce dog fear?"

Source: https://pethelpful.com/dogs/Dog-Behavior-Understanding-Fear-Periods-in-Dogs

Make Your Life Easier -- start training from DAY ONE

Every puppy comes to their new home with an inherent desire to follow. They are always underfoot and look to you for guidance and entertainment. Then something happens...they turn 16 weeks and realize that they can be independent. 

If you do it right, teaching your new puppy to come back when called is the easiest skill to solidify. Your puppy is already showing you the desired behaviour. All you need to do is reward it, praise it, solidify it. By rewarding their desire to follow, you are creating a solid foundation on which to build your recall. If you wait until they are 16 weeks old, you will have to work exponentially harder to make recalls fun and rewarding. 

Make life easier for you and your new pup - start training from day one and always reward the behaviors you like.

Erinn Lee Dog Training

http://www.erinnlee.com