Thursday, January 10, 2019

"Advocating for Your Puppy" by Jane Messineo Lindquist

  Jane Messineo Lindquist shared a link.
I know I sound like a broken record but this is why I just do not walk my dogs in our local parks. Until society catches up to the idea that leash laws need to be followed, I'll pass. Here's a repost of our "advocating for your puppy" which gives our guidelines:

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This once again raises the question of what it means to advocate for your puppy or dog. We tried really hard in Puppy Culture to empower puppy owners and give them a “talk track” when confronted with a professional or a person of authority who is advocating using force or aversive tactics with their puppy. I’m going to speak plainly but I don’t want this to be hurtful to anyone who has had a bad experience with their puppy. I do want to change the conversation from us being the victims with our puppies to being our puppies’ advocates. This acknowledges that, as of right now, it’s just not common knowledge to do this so I’m trying to raise awareness, not taking anyone to task.

1. Even the MOST experienced dog owners feel pressure when confronted by a person in a position of authority, such as a veterinarian, dog trainer, or professional handler. You need to have a talk track ready. I tell my puppy owners to blame it on me and tell them “I signed a contract with my breeder stating I would not do that so we’re not going to do it” But the important thing is to be ready to walk away.

2. When you are with your puppy or dog, do not EVER be worried about what people think of you socially. That includes not looking at and or/ignoring people who are trying to talk to you as well as literally walking away from bad advice or someone trying to touch your dog. It feels awkward, at first, but you will get used to it and it will start to feel REALLY GOOD when you do the right thing by your puppy.

3. Perhaps most importantly (and least recognized,) is our duty to foresee situations that could put our puppy in harms way. Justifiably, when one of these incidents happen we all rally round and support the puppy owner and talk about what jerks those other people are, but so what. You may be “right” but you’re the one holding the leash of a puppy who’s now messed up. Here are just a couple of examples of very common and eminently avoidable incidents that dog trainers hear about on a weekly basis:

”Another dog jumped/attacked him in training/agility/obedience class.” It happens EVERY DAY. By the time I write this post there will be another dog who’s been screwed up and now needs a year of remedial work. The owner will post all the details and everyone will agree and shake their fist but they are all missing the point - this is predictable and could have been avoided. My answer to this is do not go to a training class where dogs are off leash together. Period. I don’t do it unless the other dogs are personally known to me. And socialization classes should be for young puppies only, and they should follow all of Dr. Terri Bright’s guidelines in Puppy Culture. Maybe after my dogs are over three years old, I might go to a group class where I trust the instructor, but it’s always assumption of the risk and I am on high alert at all times. Side note: I run my agility classes one dog at a time (exceptions are made for dogs that know each other) and in my dog training seminars my mantra is “The Dog On The Floor Has The Floor” and all other dogs MUST be crated. Not everyone likes it but I’m opting for safety.

”Another dog jumped/attacked him when out for a walk.” Again, fists will be shaken at “those idiots” who let their dogs off leash and do not have control, and yes, verily, they are idiots and hateful and it’s all their fault, but it’s totally predictable to the point where you almost have to take some responsibility for putting your puppy in that position. I do not take my young dogs for walks anywhere where there is the possibility of people having dogs off leash. So, for the first year or two of their lives, they are walked on show grounds, at agility trials, rally/obedience trials - anywhere where “professional” dog people are. Then, when I feel they’re ready to start longer walks and hikes (usually around 15-18 months) my rule is we only walk on trails where there are actual mountainous parts where you have to scramble with your hands to get up the hill. This keeps the palookas away.

Flat trails and walks on the sidewalk past the inevitable dog that rushes (or breaks through) the invisible fence are never for some of my dogs, not until they are over three years old for the really rock solid ones. Your dog does not need a walk at the expense of becoming aggressive to other dogs because he had a bad experience.

•”The vet/tech/trainer scruffed/alpha rolled my puppy” A couple of things, here. Number one, watch again Dr. Terri Bright’s checklist for a puppy class. Stick to it. If you can’t find a suitable class, just get together with friends and train on your own. It’s not rocket science and there are great on-line resources. Number two, never hand the leash to anyone, ever. One of my friends was bringing three older puppies in to the vet for various things and she had the techs bring one puppy in for her. The puppy jumped on the tech and the tech alpha rolled the puppy, my friend lost her sh*t on the tech, and one of the other clients in the lobby yelled at my friend for “spoiling” her puppy and said the tech was right, and a verbal brawl ensued. Yes tech+client=a couple of jerks but it’s predictable to the point of, once again, being a "shame on me" for letting someone else have the leash. The real lesson is that you never hand your puppy over to anyone. Bring in one puppy at a time or roll them in on a dolly in crates.

I could go on and on all day and maybe someday I will, but the first step in advocating for our puppies is to let go of some of the notions of what is necessary and good for our puppies. You 100% do need to train your puppy, but you don’t have to do it in a class. You 100% do have to socialize your puppy to other animals, but you can set up your own sessions. You 100% do need to take your puppy to the vet, but you can and should walk out of any vet’s office that is not willing to create a +CER to vet visits by giving your puppy cookies and treating them well. You 100% do have to bring all of your puppies to the vet, but if the vet is not willing to wait for you to bring them in one at a time and you can’t bring them in on a dolly in a crate, find another vet.
And yes, all this having been said, it absolutely can happen no matter what you do. And that’s where we hope that our early foundation work with emotional resilience will kick in and serve the puppy. But, make no mistake, it’s very, very, hard to undo these bad experiences in young dogs/puppies. As we say again and again in Puppy Culture, the emotional sensitivity that allows for the socialization process cuts both ways and will allow the puppy to imprint a bad experience as readily, even more readily, than a good one. So always err on the side of caution!

Thursday, January 3, 2019

Want to learn about dog shows?

Want to learn about dog shows? 
Check out the AKC's A Beginner's Guide to Dog Shows


8 Week Old "Sutton" from our 2016 Litter

Living in the City with Dogs -- can it work?

If I were to choose two words to summarize how to live harmoniously with dogs in apartment buildings it would be "with consideration." It really is no different than how we should strive to treat our neighbors even when pets are not involved. For example, before having a party, it's considerate to inform your neighbors that you will be entertaining, invite them to join in on the fun, and be mindful of not being excessively noisy late in the evening. Similarly, if one has a dog, check in with your neighbors from time to time to make sure that Rocky is not driving them crazy with his whining and barking. 

The consideration extends to our dogs as well. It is not fair to leave a young, active dog all day in an apartment with nothing to do and expect that he will be a model citizen. He might be destructive (which may or may not affect neighbors) and vocalize out of boredom and frustration.

Noise (barking/whining)

Dog owners should be courteous and respond promptly to complaints. They should also try to figure out why their dog is barking, perhaps with the help of a qualified professional positive reinforcement-based trainer. Does the dog get enough exercise during the day? A walk around the block is insufficient for most dogs. Can a dog walker be hired to come during the day? If the dog is easy to walk, could a young person in the building perform this task?

Noise (separation distress or anxiety)

If your dog is whining and/or barking for hours, it’s likely being caused by some amount of separation distress, especially if there is evidence of destruction such as biting the door or walls. If so, you may need to address this with a professional positive reinforcement-based behavior consultant or possibly a veterinary behaviorist. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior has a list of certified veterinary behaviorists on its website. These veterinarians are expert in behavioral issues in animals and may, if necessary, prescribe medications that can help relieve your dog’s anxieties.

Bored dogs

Leave him with something to do! Fill Kongs with his food, mixed with a spoonful of yogurt or peanut butter and freeze them; leave them around the apartment so he has to hunt for them and work to get the food out, rather than eating it in a few seconds out of a bowl. If he’s a good, safe chewer, provide him with some raw bones to work on, or use interactive toys such as Kong Wobblers. You can try something as simple as hiding treats or your dog’s kibble in cereal boxes or paper towel rolls (be sure he won’t ingest these by first trying this out while you are at home). Leave a classical music radio station on or play “Through a Dog’s Ear” CDs. Or try Dog Appeasing Pheromone (DAP or Adaptil plug-in).

Please read entire link - https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/19_4/features/City-Dogs_21437-1.html?ET=wholedogjournal:e322010:821510a:&st=email&s=p_TOTW121818

Wednesday, January 2, 2019

Male vs. Female?


Ain't that the truth?!

When dealing with a reputable breeder, its best to be open to a puppy of EITHER sex to get the best match in temperament to your family. People often have a personal preference to the sex of their pet, but Vizslas are not for generalizations. Characteristics such as loyalty, affection, and ease of training (I use that term loosely) are definitely NOT gender specific in this breed. While most people think female dogs are sweeter and calmer and make better companions, quite often in Vizslas it is a male who fits this description best. The male Vizsla is actually the sweeter of the two (and also more "needy"). This makes them easier to train using positive methods. If you get a Vizsla from a reputable breeder, the dog (male or female) should be sweet. However, if the girls are sugar, then the boys are molasses and they "stick" to you like molasses too.  

Puppy Nipping -- this comes up with *every* puppy


Sweet sleepy babies




A box full of sleepy babies after having visitors. Love those wrinkles!

We're good eaters!



The babies are enjoying kibble soaked in goats milk 3x's a day. They are good eaters! Nom nom nom!