Do you know the difference between so-called “Core” and “Non-Core” vaccines for your dog, and what those terms mean? Do you sometimes wonder, “How often do I need to vaccinate my dog?” Or which vaccines are absolutely necessary and which are not? And what’s required by law? It can get confusing. A lot of veterinarians give out misleading information to get you to keep vaccinating your dog regularly. So we want to fill in the blanks and give you the information you need to make the best decision for your dog. Then, when you get that card in the mail from your vet reminding you that your dog’s due for his annual physical exam and vaccinations, you’ll be prepared, knowing what your dog does and doesn’t need to remain protected from disease – and stay out of trouble with the law!
Core Vs Non-Core
All of the vaccines given to dogs fit into 2 categories: core and non-core vaccines.
Core vaccines are the ones most vets recommend your dog should have as a puppy. These vaccines all protect against dangerous viral diseases. They are:
Rabies
Distemper
Parvovirus
Adenovirus (Canine Hepatitis)
The Non-Core vaccines include:
Bordetella
Lyme Disease
Leptospirosis 4-way (this is sometimes included in combination vaccines with core vaccines, but it is a non-core vaccine and should be considered separately)
Canine Influenza
Parainfluenza
Adenovirus Intranasal
Several of the non-core vaccines (Bordetella, Lyme and Leptospirosis) are bacterial vaccines. Bacterial vaccines have low efficacy rates coupled with high incidence of adverse reactions. This means they should rarely be used, and then, only after careful consideration of all the risks of vaccinating vs not vaccinating against these diseases.
But if you do plan to give your dog any of these vaccines (or you already have), you’ll need to know how long they last and how to protect him after. [Related] Want to no more about those non-core vaccines for dogs? There’s a ton of info here.
This is great, but it still doesn’t answer the question of which ones your dog needs. Don’t worry, I’m getting to that.
How Long Vaccines Last
We’ve created a downloadable chart that you can print off and take with you (or look at before you make an appointment). In it, you’ll see two parts, one for Core and one for Non-Core vaccines.
First, for core vaccines … you’ll see the Minimum Duration of Immunity of the Core Vaccines. Protection against disease from these vaccines has been proven by clinical studies to last from 7 to 15 years (depending on the vaccine). The core vaccine information in the chart is based on clinical studies by Ronald D Schultz PhD and you can read more about his work in this article.
If your dog has had any of the core vaccines at 16 weeks of age or older, he’s most likely protected for life and doesn’t need to be vaccinated again.
Your veterinarian may not agree with this. Unless your veterinarian is truly holistic, she will probably at least follow the AAHA guidelines.
Your veterinarian may imply that the core vaccines are required by law. But, except for rabies, they’re not.
Next, for non-core vaccines, you’ll see we’ve focused on the three main non-core vaccines that your vet’s likely to recommend: Bordetella (kennel cough), Lyme Disease and Leptospirosis. Since we don’t advocate any of these vaccines, the chart lists some issues with these vaccines that you should consider before vaccinating your dog.
Why You Shouldn’t Over-Vaccinate Your Dog
Vaccinating your dog more often than necessary can be very dangerous for him. All vaccines have potential adverse reactions. These can range from fairly mild reactions like lethargy or soreness, to really severe ones like anaphylactic shock, autoimmune diseases and even death. The vaccine can also cause the disease it’s intended to prevent!
When your dog is protected by the vaccines he’s already had, vaccinating him again does not make him “more immune.”
Vaccines also contain other ingredients that are potentially harmful for your dog.
Ingredients in Vaccines
Most vaccines include toxic ingredients that add to the risks of vaccinating your dog.
Two of these are:
Thimerosal
This is a mercury based additive used as a preservative. Mercury toxicity is well known and repeatedly proven in studies. Yet it’s still contained in most veterinary vaccines today. Even some vaccines that claim to be thimerosal-free may still contain small amounts of thimerosal. That’s because it can be used in processing but not added as an ingredient, so the manufacturers don’t have to disclose it.
Gentamicin
This is an antibiotic. According to the FDA (US Food and Drug Administration), antibiotics are in vaccines to prevent bacterial infection during manufacturing, So when your dog gets a vaccine, he’s getting antibiotics whether you like it or not. [Related] These aren’t the only dangerous ingredients in dog vaccines. Find more here.
If your veterinarian presses you to over-vaccinate your dog with core vaccines, you can draw her attention to Dr Schultz’s research. Dr Schultz’s studies show the minimum duration of immunity that likely protects your dog for life once he’s had his core vaccines as a puppy or adult.
If your vet needs more convincing, you can ask for titers to confirm your dog’s protected. Some vets charge an exorbitant amount for titers (perhaps because they really don’t want to do them) and some may even refuse.
If that’s the case, you can ask your vet to draw the blood for you (usually about a $15 to $20 charge) and then send it yourself to Hemopet for testing. You can submit your titer request on Hemopet’s website. A distemper and parvo titer costs only $52 and you can ship the vial of blood for about $6 via a US Postal Service Small Flat Rate Box.
For Non-Core Vaccines
Your vet is likely to recommend Bordetella and Leptospirosis vaccines, as well as Lyme if you live in a high tick area. All of these vaccines carry a high risk for your dog and don’t work very well. Check the vaccine issues listed on the chart, and also consider these points before vaccinating your dog.
Bordetella: If you board your dog, try to find a kennel that doesn’t require Bordetella. If your kennel does, ask to sign a waiver accepting the risk of your dog getting kennel cough on their premises … that’s what worries them. Or better yet, have a pet-sitter come to your home and then you don’t need to worry about vaccination requirements.
Leptospirosis: If you think your dog is at risk for lepto, make sure you find out from your local health authority what strains of lepto are in your area. The vaccine covers the L. canicola, L. icterohaemorrhagiae, L.grippotyphosa and L.pomona serovars. If these strains aren’t prevalent where you live, there is no point in taking the risk of vaccinating your dog.
Also note that some vets give the Leptospirosis vaccine in conjunction with core vaccines. You may see a vaccine called something like DHLPP. That “L” is leptospirosis … make sure you know what vaccines your vet is using. Your dog could still get the lepto shot.
Lyme: if your dog’s not out in the woods picking up ticks, he’s probably not at risk for Lyme disease. If you do take your dog into tick-infested areas, use natural protection methods to keep the ticks away. Check him thoroughly for ticks when you get home. Removing the ticks promptly will help prevent the tick from infecting him.
So which dog vaccines are necessary? That’s a question only you can answer!
Julia Henriques is Managing Editor of Dogs Naturally Magazine. She's on the Board of Playing Again Sams (Wisconsin Samoyed Rescue) where she enjoys helping adopters and group members choose more natural health care options for their dogs. She lives in Chicago with her partner Marc and two rescue Samoyeds.
There is a great deal of confusion surrounding the term socialization and what it means for a puppy. The term comes from the description of specific stages of canine development. A pup goes through two socialization periods. In the primary socialization period they learn how to be a dog, in the human socialization period they learn how to navigate our complex world and everything in it. Combined, these development stages comprise only about 10 weeks; starting at about 3 weeks and ending at about 14 weeks of age. What happens or doesn’t happen during this time has a lasting effect on a puppy.
What Socialization is NOT
• A pup on leash meeting other dogs on leash.
• A puppy getting pets from the neighbor while you stand back and watch.
• A puppy sequestered in the house or yard until he has all his shots.
What’s The Big Deal?
Lacking a comprehensive understanding about this stage of development can literally make or break the quality of your dog’s life. If a puppy misses out on lots of positive early introductions during this time, serious behavioral issues are likely to develop. It’s crucial to have a robust game plan. You must be organized and strategic. Use our Social Schedule to stay on track, and use the Field Trip Worksheet to think critically about your outings. During this time social expeditions must be part of your daily routine.
Have you ever caught your dog running in circles at top speed around the backyard or house? I’m sure you wondered what he was doing. Was he stung by a bee, spooked by something, or had he turned into a wild animal? Chances are it was simply a case of the dog zoomies.
According to Los Angeles-based Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist Jill Goldman, Ph.D., zoomies are a type of Frenetic Random Activity Period (FRAP) where a dog seems to suddenly explode with energy. “They are bursts of energy like a volcano. Energy builds up then there is the expression and release of that energy.” Usually, with the zoomies, a dog will show repetitive behavior like running around in circles, taking laps around the yard, or continuously circling the dining room table.
Goldman explains that dogs engage in the zoomies when, “they have some form of excess energy that’s been contained such as physical energy, like when they’ve been crated, or nervous energy, like when they have tolerated an uncomfortable situation.” The chance to finally release that energy can lead to seemingly wild FRAPping behavior. “Anytime your dog has been denied the opportunity to express his natural energy levels; you can predict a case of the zoomies.”
When do Zoomies Happen?
Given that zoomies are a way for dogs to get their energy out, they often happen first thing in the morning after dogs have rested all night. They can also happen later in the day for dogs that have been confined in a crate or haven’t been walked. Stressful situations like being restrained, a bath or grooming session, or a trip to the vet can also lead to the zoomies. Even a good poop can send some canines running around in circles.
And it’s not just puppies that zoom. Dogs of any age can participate in the behavior. But Goldman says the younger the dog, the more often you can expect it. “The more energy a dog has and the fewer opportunities to exert that energy, the more often you’ll see it.” Senior dogs sleep far more than young pups, so they have less energy to exert in the first place, but without the chance to express themselves appropriately, they can feel the need to zoom too.
The zoomies are a normal and natural dog behavior. Not all dogs participate, but those that do often seem gleeful, as if they are having a fabulous time. In fact, play bows often go hand in hand with the behavior. As dogs are finally letting out their pent-up energy, it’s no wonder they seem to be having so much fun.
Are Zoomies Safe?
But are zoomies safe? As long as there are no obstacles to get in the way and harm your dog in the process, Goldman says it’s fine to let your dog’s zoomies run their course.
When you see the zoomies coming on, like after a trip to the bathtub, be sure your dog is in a safe place. Perhaps a carpeted room to prevent slipping and falling, and certainly away from delicate trinkets on the coffee table. Or let your dog zoom in a fully fenced yard where he can’t get into any trouble. Allow your dog to enjoy himself and get it out of his system.
As fun as they look, is there ever a time when the zoomies are cause for concern? Goldman suggests tracking your dog’s zooming behavior. If you chart when the zoomies are happening, you can understand why they’re happening. Perhaps it’s just after a bath for example. Occasionally is fine, but a dog that zooms frequently might be one that is spending too much time in the crate or dealing with too much stress. “If they’re often happening in the house, then you’re probably not giving your dog enough physical and mental stimulation,” she suggests.
A dog that engages in the zoomies all the time could also be a sign of a bigger problem. “It’s important to make a distinction between normal zoomies and compulsive behavior like excessive tail chasing or chasing shadows continuously,” says Goldman. If you have any concerns about your dog’s zoomies, such as them happening all the time or in stressful situations, consult a certified applied animal behaviorist or a veterinary behaviorist to help get to the bottom of the situation.
Puppy teeth – yes indeed they do hurt! Puppy biting is a perfectly natural behavior. Puppies use their mouths to explore their surroundings; nothing is sacred from puppy teeth. They also use their teeth when playing. Fortunately, this is something they usually grow out of when they lose their puppy teeth at around sixteen weeks. Puppies themselves learn that their teeth are sharp when they are still with their mother and littermates. They begin to hurt their mother’s teat when feeding and she will get up and walk away. The pup learns there is a consequence to using teeth. They also learn the consequences of using their teeth too hard when playing with their littermates. If they use their teeth too enthusiastically the game will end one way or another. Either their littermate will yell in pain and stop playing or they may end up fighting.
Remember that dogs only have one defense if they are in pain, frightened or cornered and that is to use teeth. This does not make a bad dog it is simply dog behavior!
Your job is to teach the dog that teeth on human skin are not allowed! You also need to teach him to have a soft mouth. To help him learn to inhibit his bite you need to act like a playmate. Never use your hands or body as a toy when playing with your puppy. Instead use a suitable toy.
If your puppy catches your skin or clothes when you are playing yell ‘ouch’ – a good high-pitched yell is needed as though he really hurt you. Get up, move away from your puppy and stop playing. Redirect his teeth onto something more acceptable, a stuffed Kong, the cardboard innards of toilet roll or kitchen roll, a toy or a nylabone or chew. (Don’t give your puppy cheap plastic toys to chew, as they can be dangerous if swallowed.)
Many puppies under 14 weeks will back off when you yell then come back and lick you. Praise and redirect the play onto something appropriate. Some puppies will see the yell as a cue to lunge at you even harder. These puppies are usually over stimulated, over tired or perhaps Terriers! Do not shout, do not use a water pistol, do not scruff or shake, simply remain calm, get up and walk away. Ensure your puppy is getting enough rest during the day – especially if you have children. Place your puppy on a good diet as some diets have been implicated in effecting behavior. Make sure that everyone in the household treats your puppy the same way. Children should always be supervised when they interact with your puppy, as young children tend to flap their arms around squealing, which only excites the puppy.
Stopping a puppy play biting takes time and consistency. Puppies will latch onto to anything that moves – your trouser leg, the bottom of your dressing gown and your toes! Why, because it gets a reaction from the owner. If this happens, stop walking. Do not get into a game of tug with your trouser leg or dressing gown. Try and redirect your puppy onto something more acceptable. Being proactive instead of reactive will safely teach your puppy where and when he can use his teeth.
Last but not least, Shepard is now “Bernie”! This sweet boy is going to live the beach life in beautiful Pacific Grove, CA, with Barbara and Jon. He is an old soul with a kind and gentle temperament. He joins another Moonlight family member, big brother Ember (2014 Spenser/Zene Litter) and we know they will become fast friends. We look forward to seeing his debut in the show ring soon.
Sheldon, now “Oslo” is going home with experienced Vizsla owners Sam and Eckhard who are dedicated to spending each and every day filled with fun activities and training and are devoted to giving their new puppy the best life possible. Oslo is the whole package! He is sweet, inquisitive, so very handsome and eager to please. This pup is sure to be a showstopper in the show ring.
Sweet Sheridan is now “June”. This lucky little girl is going to first-time Vizsla owners Chip & Elizabeth who are enthusiastically joining the Moonlight family! June is a petite little pixie who steals the heart of everyone she meets -- but she has her "spicy" side just like her mama Harley! We look forward to watching this girl floating around the show ring and showing her prowess in the field hunting birds!
Sherman is going to live a Vizsla’s dream life in Fruita, Colorado, with friend and newly retired co-worker Heidi and her husband Ken. Sherman is in one word = lovable! He is built like a tank and has two speeds, 100mph or snooze (ideally napping in a cozy-cave!). He is a sweetheart and is eager to please. He has an independent streak and is decidedly persistent which will make him an ideal hunting companion as he won't give up on a hunt/scent.
We love you Sherman and can’t wait to visit you in Colorado! 🧡
Go Home Day is approaching as the pups are turning 9 Weeks Old! Jen and Brian have raised four gorgeous babies -- and Harley has been an outstanding mom.
Sending puppies off is always bittersweet but being choosy with home selection ensures a level of comfort when they start their new life.
We include our "world famous" go home bag containing most everything to get the puppy started off in their new home. Some items we include:
Lupine Collar and Leash Set
Tick Puller
Clicker
Puppy Culture Exercise Booklet
Toothbrush
Kong
Nylabone
Chewies (bully sticks, beef cheek slices - not rawhide)
Plush Toy
Treats
Blanket that smells like littermates/mom
Folder with Contract and TONS of handouts on puppy raising, socialization, training, etc.
Recently, a woman took her dog to the dog park for some fun and exercise. She envisioned him frolicking with other dogs and coming home happy and tired. Instead, the poor dog came away needing surgery to save his life, along with more than 10 puncture wounds. I saw the photos; suffice it to say they were both sickening and heart-wrenching. Just a few days later, another woman posted on Facebook about an encounter at the same dog park. Her dog had been attacked, had suffered serious damage to a limb, and needed to be rushed to the vet. The owner of the other dog refused to acknowledge that her dog had done anything wrong, and fled the scene.
Fortunately, both of these dogs will recover—physically, at least. As anyone who has ever suffered a bodily assault knows, the toll goes far beyond physical injury. The extent of emotional damage to any dog who has been attacked depends on the seriousness of the attack and on the temperament of the individual dog. For some dogs this type of encounter can, understandably, result in a fear of other dogs. And as any trainer worth her salt knows, that can translate to fear-based reactivity, which most people call aggression.
Does every encounter at a dog park result in physical or emotional damage to dogs? Of course not. But you might be surprised at how many dogs are having no fun at all, despite what their owners might think. When I was putting together my seminar Dissecting the Dynamics of Dog-Dog Play (click the link for the DVD), I needed lots of video of dogs playing. One of the places I spent time at was our local dog park. I filmed hours and hours of various breeds and sizes of dogs playing together. Although I was already aware that some dogs enjoyed playing more than others and that some encounters were definitely not positive, when I reviewed the footage in slow motion, I was shocked. Sure, there were examples of safe, non-threatening play. But there was also a myriad of instances in which dogs were practically traumatized as their owners stood by, totally unaware. One example comes instantly to mind: Within seconds of a man and his medium-sized mixed breed dog entering the park, the dog was rushed by other dogs who wanted to inspect him, as is typical in any canine group. But one of the greeters clearly scared the newcomer, who then lunged and snapped. The owner gave his dog a verbal warning for that defensive action and kept walking deeper into the park. Another dog approached and this time, with his tail tucked, the dog snapped and lunged more intently. The owner grabbed him by the collar and chastised him. Over the next five minutes, the dog had four more encounters that resulted in his being punished by the owner, each time more harshly. It would have been clear to anyone versed in canine body language that the dog was afraid, and was becoming more and more reactive because he was on the defense. It was difficult to stand there filming, and I considered aborting to go and speak with him. Just then, a woman who was a regular there approached and struck up a conversation with the man. Thankfully, she was able to convince him that his dog was scared and to leave the park. I’m sad to say that this was far from being the only negative encounter I filmed. More importantly, this sort of thing happens daily at dog parks across the world.
By now you’re probably thinking, Gee Nicole, how do you really feel? The thing is, I’ve seen the flip side as well. I’ve watched a group of ladies who meet at the park most mornings with their dogs. They’re savvy about canine body language, and although they enjoy socializing with each other as their dogs play, they constantly monitor the action. If play begins to become too heated, they create a time out by calling their dogs to them for a short break before releasing them to play again. In this way, they prevent arousal from escalating into aggression. The dogs all know each other and for the most part get along well. I have absolutely no problem with this type of scenario. Unfortunately, it’s far from being the norm. The typical scene at a dog park includes a random assortment of dogs whose owners range from being absolutely ignorant about dog behavior to being well informed, with most of the population falling somewhere in the middle. And why not? They’re not dog professionals, but loving owners who simply want their dogs to get some exercise and have a good time. In most cases, they’re not aware of the subtle or not-so-subtle signals that could indicate danger, or even that dangers exist. Comments like, “Ah, they’re dogs, they’ll work it out,” and “Oh, he’s fine” abound. It’s strange if you think about it: if you were the parent of a young child, would you send him in blindly to play with a group of kids that possibly included bullies and criminals? Wouldn’t you at the very least stand there and observe the play for a few minutes before allowing him to join the fray? If you did allow the child to participate, would you not keep an eye on him and leave if you felt there was a potential threat? And yet, at the dog park, the majority of owners never do those things.
In the best of all worlds, there would be mandatory education for dog park attendees as well as a knowledgeable staff member or volunteer at every park to monitor the action and to stop dogs who are known to be aggressive from entering in the first place. Perhaps a membership model would make this possible. Unfortunately, that is not the reality. And so, it falls to we owners to be advocates and protectors for our dogs. That means if you absolutely insist on taking your dog to a dog park, that you scan the environment before entering, that you monitor your dog’s play even while chatting with other owners, and that you intervene even to the point of leaving if necessary when you feel something is not right, even if that means facing social ostracism. Personally, I prefer play dates with known quantities rather than a park full of potential aggressors who might do serious physical or emotional damage to my dogs. If I do take mine into the dog park to run around, it’s during off hours when the park is empty. You might find this over the top or even paranoid. That’s okay. If you heard all of the stories I’ve heard over the years and seen all of the damage I’ve seen, you might think twice about whether dog parks are worth the risk.
You can find my books, seminar DVDs & more at www.nicolewilde.com. Don’t want to miss any blog posts? Subscribe at the top of the page. You can also follow me on Facebook and Twitter.
Like many canine behaviors that we humans find annoying, inconvenient, or embarrassing, dog humping is a perfectly normal behavior. And like other such annoying, inconvenient, and embarrassing behaviors, it’s perfectly reasonable for us to ask our dogs to stop, or to at least reserve the behavior for times or places that are considered more appropriate by the human family members.
So why do dogs hump? Reproduction aside, the most common reason dogs hump things is in response to stress, anxiety, and/or excitement.
Folks are often surprised that their Puppy Culture-raised dog is not indefinitely tolerant of every sundry dog it meets. This flow chart on "normal" dog sociability from Cindy Bennett Martin is the BOMB and clarifies what's normal, even with excellent socialization.
As so often is the case, the problem lies in expectations - we expect dogs to stay on the left hand side of this chart whereas in reality that is highly unusual in an adult dog.
They are almost always going to move to some degree to the right, no matter how excellent your socialization and rearing plan is. Listen to your dog and give him what he is asking for!
Why My Puppies Are Free (Also Known as “What Puppy Buyers Should Be Able to Expect from Breeders”)
This post is coming from the fact that I WANTA PUPPY LIKE MERDE AND WHOA AND HECK, as well as the ongoing mental discussion I’m having with myself about health issues. I have the two elements–prospective buyer and breeder–all swirling around in my head.
And this is a bit of the pattern that is getting splashed up against the wall of my brain.
One question that is always a little difficult to tap-dance around, when you’re a breeder or when you’re a buyer, is the price of the puppy in question. It’s considered bad form to publicly price puppies, because that implies that this is a straightforward transaction: You give me a pile of Benjamin’s and I hand you this puppy, end of story. We instead try to communicate that it’s hard to get a puppy from us and we want you to seek out and develop a relationship with us before we start talking business. It’s also supposed to imply that you as a buyer shouldn’t go shop around for the lowest price, because this is not a dishwasher and one does not equal another.
Unfortunately, this can sometimes lead breeders to adopt the “If you have to ask, you can’t afford it” scheme; this was a pretty big problem in Danes. There were some breeders who decided that their show puppies were worth $5000 plus two puppies back, even though other breeders using similar pedigrees and similar win records were pricing at a quarter of that amount. It can also lead owners into a kind of ridiculous secret-handshake routine where they are still trying to shop around but have calculated exactly how long a phone conversation they have to have with a breeder before they can delicately mention prices.
That’s problem one.
Here’s the other background problem: Every single prospective puppy buyer, without exception, is sort of pre-traumatized when they come into the relationship with you. Since the people who end up with good breeders are the ones who have taken time to research a lot about dogs, most of them already feel somewhat defensive about buying a puppy rather than adopting one. They’ve read a great deal about how the only good way to get a dog is to go to a shelter, pound, or rescue, and they intellectually disagree (or they wouldn’t be calling you) but they feel either a little or a lot guilty about it.
Compounding this problem is that, again without exception, they know someone who has been “ripped off” by a breeder or they themselves have had a bad experience with a breeder. They want a puppy, often quite desperately, but they are not quite sure whether they need to set themselves up as our friends or our adversaries.
Here’s the absolute worst thing you can do: After the long phone conversation tap-dance, name the big number and then justify the price of your puppies by comparing what you have or what you’ve done to what your peer breeders (i.e., other Cardigan exhibitor/breeders) have and what they’ve done, making sure the buyers understand that your puppies are better than those breeders’ dogs and DEFINITELY better than adopted/homeless dogs because of XYZ(I’ve even heard people use specific names, or criticize specific shelters, which is really uncool). Tell them that your dogs are expensive because they’ll live longer and are healthier and better tempered, and they’re prettier too.
Why is that a terrible idea? Because there is NO WAY ON EARTH you can guarantee that. You are giving them a live animal in its infancy, and 99.5% of what is going to happen to that animal has nothing to do with the good breeding decisions you may or may not have made (and, all too often, we don’t find out until the puppies are five years old or even older that in fact it was NOTa good thing that we bred those two dogs because the now-grown puppies are metaphorically or literally dropping like flies).
DO NOT FOOL YOURSELF. Even in the best litter you’ve ever bred or will breed, there will be puppies that are less than stellar in appearance or health. I don’t care what health tests you do–you WILLmake puppies that are genetic disasters and die young, sometimes horribly young and horribly traumatically. And there are WITHOUT A DOUBT going to be temperament problems in some puppies or grown dogs. Sometimes it’s because you convinced yourself that your bitch who tried to bite a judge, attacks all other dogs, and who violently shies away from anything red, round, less than two feet above the ground, or wearing a hat is that way because the neighbor from next door looked at her funny when she was three months old, instead of admitting that her loose screw is being very predictably passed along to her kids. Far more often it’s because the owner made a series of very bad decisions, as owners often do, and created a problem.
If you’ve pinned a dollar amount to health, longevity, or temperament, the new owner has every right to be furious and every right to call this a ripping off. You sold something that you did not deliver.
And these are the owners that will try to convince everyone they know that breeders are bad news, and the expensive ones are not only dishonest but greedy. No breeders can be trusted, so buying from the classified ads is just the same as buying from the breeder of the big winners and so you should just go save yourself some money.
And that’s the GOOD scenario. In the bad scenario, you get sued for breach of contract and you never breed again.
So let me suggest an approach that I did not come up with–this is what my very wise and wonderful Dane mentor told me.
BE HONEST. That’s all puppy buyers want. Aside from the very few genuinely bad ones, who are not going to be happy no matter what, buyers want to know the real situation. They want to feel respected and they want to know that you’re not going to cheat them.
And the HONEST truth is that we cannot in any way guarantee that our puppies will meet or exceed the health, personality, temperament, or behavior of any other dog. We can say that we’ve done our absolute best to weigh things in that puppy’s favor, and we can explain exactly how we’ve planned the breeding and how we’ve raised the litter and why we think those practices give this puppy a better chance than the people down the road with the “Yelo Lab Pupps: $650″sign on their tree, but this is a living organism and all we’ve done is observed it until it’s eight weeks old.
And so, again following the advice of a far wiser breeder than I, when people ask me how much my puppies are, I tell them “They’re free. Or, if it makes you feel more comfortable, they’re whatever the price of an average shelter adoption is in your neighborhood. When and if we decide that this is a good match and you decide to get a puppy from me, you’ll be writing me a check for [whatever it is], but that check is actually buying ME.You are paying for the right to call me, any time of the day or night, for the life of this dog. You’re paying for me to be your training assistant, your dedicated boarding kennel, your vet advocate, and your nutritional consultant. You are paying me a research fee for making an educated and smart decision about which dog to breed to which dog. And you’re paying me a retainer so that at any time in your dog’s life I will take back that dog, no questions asked, no matter the situation, and you’re paying me to take some very difficult decisions off your hands.”
I then advise them to consider the purchase price of ANY puppy in those terms. The only thing they can be sure of getting for their big wad of cash is a relationship with a breeder. If they are not absolutely comfortable with me, absolutely sure that they will get their money’s worth of me, they should go elsewhere even if I have a puppy available. If they are not completely sure that whatever breeder they’re talking to is a safe place to deposit that “wage,” they need to run away even if the most adorable puppy on earth is staring at them.
It took me until my third litter to have been burned enough to add this, usually during the last big interview and contract-signing before they actually take the dog home:
“Look at this puppy. What I am giving you is what I have created. Don’t take it home unless you are totally comfortable with everything you see, because once it leaves my house YOU are creating it. From here on out, you’re the one shaping temperament and behavior, and aside from wholly genetic disorders you’re on the hook for health too.
You’re paying for my advice. That means you have to come to me IMMEDIATELY if there’s a problem. You can’t see a behavior you don’t like, or a health issue you’re not sure of, and wait around for five months until it’s a real crisis and then show up and ask me to fix it. I won’t be able to. You need to come to me, even if it takes fifteen phone calls and a trip back here, when it’s still something I can solve or can advise you on how to solve. If you make that effort, I will bend over backwards and devote every bit of time and energy I have to solving your problem and getting you back on the right path to happiness with your dog. If you do not come to me–and that’s the first thing I’m going to ask you when you call: when did you first see this issue–there’s a very good chance that it will be too late. And if it is too late, I’ll still take the dog back because that’s my commitment to you and to this dog, but I’ll be sending the dog to heaven.”
Being honest also means defining very simply and without ambiguity when a health or temperament problem is your fault and when it’s their fault. If you screwed up and so the dog died young, replace it. Don’t argue. If the dog has something very wrong with it and it cannot do its job, if the owners are good ones send them a new puppy. Be very clear with them BEFORE they take the dog home (and say it to their faces and make sure they’re listening–when new owners were coming to sign the contract and take the dog home I used to put the puppies in another room so I was absolutely sure they were paying attention to me and not their new puppy) exactly what you do and do not cover, what actions will render your contract with them void, and give them the chance to back out if they’re not comfortable.
And then, although this has nothing to do with your legal or ethical duty, maybe every once in a while replace a puppy that you didn’t really need to, or that wasn’t your fault, if you think the owners are worth it.
When we lost-and-then-found Clue, I called Betty Ann to let her know that Clue was lost. I was sobbing through most of the phone call, which I am sure she found at least somewhat off-putting, but she listened and gave me some good advice and then said “If she’s really gone, we’ll get something to you right away.”
It blew me away. I PHYSICALLY MISPLACED MY DOG. If there was ever a situation that was not her fault, it was this one. For her to take any responsibility for making sure I still had a dog at the end of it was rather mindboggling.
Now I’m certainly not saying that we’re like LLBean for dogs (endless return policy, even if you lose it), but acting with that kind of commitment substantially raised the bar for me when it came to my own expectations of my relationships with puppy buyers.
Written by Joanna Kimball on January 24, 2009 • https://rufflyspeaking.wordpress.com
Thirty years ago, at least one member of the family was home and could take care of the dog. Times have changed and dogs now spend a lot of time alone during daylight hours. You will need to prepare your puppy for the time they will be spending alone each day. Your puppy will need to ramp up to the final goal of possibly being alone for extended periods of time. He can not be expected to do this overnight.
It is naturally stressful for dogs to be separated from us. They rely on us for their existence. This can be a rather agonizing aspect of getting a dog, but if handled properly, your pup can make the transition successfully if you condition the puppy for alone time. Do this by leaving the puppy at home alone for short periods of time. Do many little comings and goings over the course of the day. Be sure when you leave that the pup is safely in his crate or a a safe/secure dog-proof area.
Avoid big emotional hellos and good byes. We do not want to punctuate a naturally stressful time for the puppy with our own emotions. Downplay your arrivals and departures. Your puppy will learn that they are an everyday occurrence and there is no reason to get distressed. A good rule of thumb is to ignore the pup ten minutes prior to leaving the house and ten minutes after getting home.
Some people have planned getting a puppy and have scheduled vacation time specifically to help the pup make the transition into their new home. If you are home for the first couple of weeks, make a point of leaving your pup alone each day for a period of time, in his crate, in the house. He needs to grow accustomed to the idea that you will be going back to work. You do not want to spend the entire vacation with him. It would be a big shock to your puppy when you are all of a sudden not there.
Conversely, there are those people who work in home offices or don’t work (lucky you) and are able to be with the pup all day. It is nevertheless important to plan some time away from the house and your puppy. If your situation should change during the course of your dog’s life, he will be able to cope with being left alone thanks to the work you did with him as a pup.
The following vaccine protocol is offered for those dogs where minimal vaccinations are advisable or desirable. The schedule is one I recommend and should not be interpreted to mean that other protocols recommended by a veterinarian would be less satisfactory. It’s a matter of professional judgment and choice.
9 - 10 weeks of age
Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV
e.g. Merck Nobivac (Intervet Progard) Puppy DPV
14 – 15 weeks of age
Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV
18 weeks of age
Parvovirus only, MLV
Note: New research states that last puppy parvovirus vaccine should be at 18 weeks old.
20 weeks or older, if allowable by law
Rabies – give 3-4 weeks apart from other vaccines
Mercury-free (thimerosol-free, TF)
1 year old
Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV
This is an optional booster or titer. If the client intends not to booster after this optional booster or intends to retest titers in another three years, this optional booster at puberty is wise.
1 year old
Rabies – give 3-4 weeks apart from other vaccines
3-year product if allowable by law; mercury-free (TF)
Perform vaccine antibody titers for distemper and parvovirus every three years thereafter, or more often, if desired. Vaccinate for rabies virus according to the law, except where circumstances indicate that a written waiver needs to be obtained from the primary care veterinarian. In that case, a rabies antibody titer can also be performed to accompany the waiver request. Visit The Rabies Challenge Fund for more information.
W. Jean Dodds, DVM
Hemopet / NutriScan
11561 Salinaz Avenue
Garden Grove, CA 92843
Emery posing with part of the weekly stuffed marrow bone assortment . . . these are stuffed with grain free canned food but I have used Honest Kitchen, canned pumpkin, cream cheese or yogurt -- then FROZEN.
I posted the photo on Facebook (VizslaTalk) there was a bit of concern over bones getting stuck on a dog's lower jaw. UMMM, BEEN THERE. Unfortunately, this happened to Zene -- she was at the ER vet quickly and it was removed without incident (sedation for her) and no broken teeth, etc.
In recent years, dog owners have started to demand more transparency from pet food manufacturers (a needed change, in my opinion). Many are interested in selecting new types of foods for their dogs and prefer products that are less highly processed. In direct response to these trends, nutrition researchers have been studying the ingredients that are used in pet foods, including the effects of processing methods, such as rendering, cooking and feeding raw.
